STASH-BUSTING DIAGONAL WASHCLOTH AFGHAN

By Glenna Stansifer
(sierraspun at cebridge.net)

 

 

MATERIALS:  Yarns of your choice.  They should be similar in gauge, although even this isn’t an absolute requirement.   I have made this afghan in all acrylic knitting worsted weight, and in various yarns of compatible colors in my stash.  This pattern is very suitable for variegated and hand-painted yarns.  Knitter’s choice!

            Knitting needles to make a fabric to please you.  Try some different needles with the yarns you’ve chosen to see which works best for you. Again, this is Knitter’s choice.

 

GAUGE:  Not important for this pattern.

 

PATTERN STITCH:  1) Garter Stitch:  Knit every row

            2) Garter Stitch Windows:  Using two colors, work as follows:

            Odd number of stitches.

Rows 1 & 2:  Color A, knit.

            Row 3 (Right side): Color B, knit one stitch, slip next stitch, holding yarn in back, as if to purl, continue in this manner, ending the row with knit one.

            Row 4: Color B, knit one stitch, slip next stitch, holding yarn in front, as if to purl, continue in this manner, ending the row with knit one.

            Rows 5 & 6: Color A, knit.

 

BODY OF AFGHAN: Beginning (Increasing)

Cast on 3 stitches.  Work in Garter Stitch as follows:

            Knit 2, Make 1*, knit to end of row.  Continue in this manner, increasing one stitch each row, changing yarns where you feel like it, and adding single repeats of Garter Stitch Windows in a random manner.  Work until one side of the resulting triangle is as wide as you want the afghan to be.

 

            DECISION TIME:  Will it be a square afghan, or a rectangular one?  If you want a square, all you have to do is begin working the ENDING (Decreasing) portion as follows:

            Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit across.  Continue in this manner until you have 4 stitches remaining.  Knit 2 together twice, turn, knit 2 together, finish off.

 

            For a rectangular afghan, you will work a MIDDLE (Maintaining) portion until the side is as long as you want the rectangle to be, as follows:

Row 1: Knit 2, make 1, knit to end of row.

Row 2: Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit to end of row.  Repeat these two rows until this portion is as long as you want the long side to be, then begin the Decreasing portion to finish.

 

FINISHING:  Work in all ends.  The garter stitch pattern makes a finishing border unnecessary.  However, you can also apply a knitted-on edging.  The simple garter stitch used in the example is worked thus:

 

            APPLIED GARTER STITCH:

            Pick up one stitch at each garter stitch ridge (“bump”) at the edge of the afghan.  You do not need to pick up all the stitches around the afghan at one time, just enough to fill up your needle.  When you run out of body stitches on the left-hand needle, just pick up some more. 

 

Cast on about an inch’s worth of stitches (determined by measuring the body of the afghan), and, using the other end of the needle, or a second needle, knit to the last cast-on stitch and knit it together with the picked-up stitch on the first needle.  Turn work, and slip the stitch just worked, knit to end of row. 

 

Continue in this manner along the straight side of the work.  When you reach the corner, work a MITER**:  on the edge stitches and beginning at the outside, knit to the stitch before the last edge stitch (in other words, if your edge is 6 stitches wide, work 5 stitches), turn, work to edge, turn, work to stitch before the last stitch worked in the row before, turn, continue in this manner until one stitch from the edge.  Turn and begin picking up stitches not worked in previous rows until you are back to the original number and continue along the straight edge as before.  Bind off and sew straight edge together.

 

NOTES:

 

*Make 1 by lifting the thread between the stitch just made and the next one with the point of the left-hand needle and knitting into the back of the resulting loop.  This increases the stitch count by one.

 

**Miter Row by Row, assuming a 6-stitch edge, and beginning at outer edge:

            Row 1: Knit 5, turn.

Row 2: Knit 5, turn (besides the body of the afghan, there will be 1 stitch from the edging on the left-hand needle)

Row 3: Knit 4, turn.

Row 4: Knit 4, turn.

Row 5: Knit 3, turn.

Row 6: Knit 3, turn.

Row 7: Knit 2, turn.

Row 8: Knit 2, turn.

Row 9: Knit 1, turn.

Row 10: Knit 1, turn.

Row 11: Knit 2, turn.

Row 12: Knit 2, turn.

Row 13: Knit 3, turn.

Row 14: Knit 3, turn.

Row 15: Knit 4, turn.

Row 16: Knit 4, turn.

Row 17: Knit 5, turn.

Row 18: Knit 5, turn.

You should now be at the edge again, and ready to continue applying the garter stitch edging to the next straight side.  Continue to pick up from the garter stitch ridges.

 

Options:  There are many options.  Just for example, you can use lace stitches in the body and/or edging of the afghan.  If you use a Knit 2, yarn-over, knit to end of row, increase, the need for an edging is practically eliminated.  The pattern is suitable for many yarns, and the variations are practically endless.  I’d be very interested in seeing what you do with it, so let me know if you make it.  Also, please let me know of any inaccuracies in the pattern.  As we all know, it’s much easier to knit ‘em than to write up the pattern.

 

 New Variation – Created June 2004

 

 

This variation uses the fringe method of finishing, instead of the garter stitch edging.  I used it because of the many different yarns used, and because I did not want to work in all those ends (necessity is often the mother of a new pattern idea).  When adding a new yarn, I simply used an overhand knot and left a 3” tail on both strands.  After I finished the entire afghan, I fringed the wider areas where there was no yarn added by taking a single 6” strand, folding it in half and attaching it to the edge, thus blending it in with the fringe caused by changing yarns.

I also used a Fibonacci progression when striping.  This is a mathematical-random sequence formed by adding the last two numbers together to get the third number.  I used garter ridges as my units, starting with 1 ridge.  The sequence went as follows, with each number being a different yarn:  1 ridge, 1 ridge, 2 ridges, 3 ridges, 5 ridges, 8 ridges, and back to 1 ridge.  I could have gone farther in the progression, with the next number being 13, but decided that an 8-ridge stripe was as far as I wanted to go.  It’s a pleasing progression and less rigid than the traditional stripe pattern where the stripes are the same width.  As mentioned above, this pattern is a jumping-off place and endlessly variable.  I'd like to see what you come up with, so send me an email with pictures. 

 

This pattern was developed by Glenna Stansifer, and is freely given to the knitting community, with the understanding that it not be reproduced and sold for profit without express permission of the designer.  Copyright c2004 by SierraSpun Fibers. My email address at the top is given in words to foil any web-crawling program that seeks out email addresses for spam.  Just substitute the "at" for the @ to send a message.

 

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